This is the more advanced Top Hatch Incubator for hatching baby chicks. Check out all of our products and the hundreds of baby. Click here to purchase Brower Top Hatch Incubator. Please click on the attachment to view the product manual. INCUBATOR & ACCESSORY INSTRUCTION MANUAL How An Incubator Works The function of an incubator is to bring normal room temperature up to a desired temperature for hatching eggs. If your room temperature is constant and free of drafts, your Little Giant incubator will need very few adjustments once regulated. Incubator & Hatcher Parts. Managing a worry free hatchery is possible when you are able to quickly access the right parts for your machines. We hope you can easily find what you need here, but if not, give us a call.

1. Brower Top Hatch Incubator Reviews
2. Browser Top Hatch Incubator Manual Instructions
3. Browser Top Hatch Incubator Manual Transmission
4. Brower Top Hatch Incubator For Sale

Note: It is recommended that you operate the still-air incubator with a small quantity of inexpensive eggs to be assured of your operating procedure and the performance of the incubator, before attempting to hatch large quantities of eggs or expensive eggs. If you are using any other kind of an incubator besides still air, then follow the instructional manual of the incubator.

Location

The location of the machine is important to successful operation. A room temperature of 70-80 degrees F. is ideal, and fresh air without drafts is necessary. A well-ventilated basement room is often just right. Be sure no direct sunlight strikes the incubator and that it sets level.

An incubator or brooder is designed to bring normal room temperature to the desired temperature. Room temperature of 60 degrees F. or below will reduce the temperature in the incubator. Room temperature changes of 10 degrees or more will change the temperature in the incubator. The change is more pronounced below a temperature of 70 degrees F.

Setting Up the Incubator

After removing the incubator, notice that the top has the windows, heater and thermostat. Place the bottom on the table. The thermostat adjusting screw and wing nut are stored beneath the brass wafer in the bottom of the incubator. Insert finger in slot and lift wafer to remove these items. See Thermostat Operation to install these items in the thermostat.

Some models of the incubator have printed on the rim of the top and bottom, the word Front to designate the front and back of the incubator.

Other models have two notches in one side of the rim of both the top and bottom that when matched up will permit the exit of the electric cord when using a turner. The side with the two notches is the back of the incubator.

Place the wire floor in the bottom of the incubator so that it lays flat.

Thermometer Instructions

Remove the thermometer from its box and place it in center of right side of the bottom, against rim and facing towards the center. This is the correct position when using an automatic turner and can be seen from the window. Adjust the thermometer stand so it can be seen from the window.

Place thermometer on floor of incubator where it can be read through the window. When using the automatic turner, the thermometer must be placed on the right side.

Remove the thermometer from the box and bend the metal stand so that the bend in the flange is 1/8' above the floor when sitting on the floor . This may be varied slightly for easier reading through the window of the incubator.

Thermostat Operation

Put wing nut on the adjusting screw about 3/4 of the way. Put adjusting screw through center hole of the top and screw into the thermostat about 1/2 inch. Screw wafer onto end of Adjusting Screw until snug. The incubator is now ready to operate.

Plug electric cord into electrical outlet. Turn thermostat adjusting screw clockwise until pilot light goes out (you may hear switch click).

Turn adjusting screw four complete turns counter clockwise. The pilot light will come on. Any time the pilot light is on, the heater and fan (if you have one) will be on. Any time the pilot light is off, the heater will be off.

As incubator warms up, the thermostat wafer will expand, turning off pilot light and heater.

When pilot light goes out, check the temperature. If it has not reached 100 degrees F., turn adjusting screw counter clockwise one or two full turns. (To help in regulating, always leave adjusting screw pointing straight up, down, left or right. After each setting tighten the wing nut, so the adjusting screw will stay in place. For fine adjustment make corrections 1/4 or 1/8 of a turn). Permit time for incubator to heat up until light goes out.

If temperature has not reached 100.5 degrees F., repeat process until 100.5 degrees F. is reached. Fine adjust thermostat to hold as close to 100.5 degrees F. as possible. If it does not hold exactly on 100.5 degrees F., regulate so that it turns on and off the same above and below 100.5 degrees F.

Remember - Temperature setting can vary as much as 1/2 degree above and 1/2 degree below your desired temperature.

Important - Please Read Carefully

Please read the instruction on Thermostat Operation again. Some users will heat the incubator with thermostat wafer too far from the thermostat switch, over heating the incubator (above 110 degrees F.), which can break the thermometer and damage the thermostat wafer.

Temperature

The Thermometer will always be sitting on the wire floor of the incubator. In a still air incubator, the closer you get to the top of the incubator, the higher the actual temperature.

We have worked out scientifically the proper thermometer reading for different size eggs, when on their side on the floor and when they are in the automatic turner. When setting eggs of different sizes, you will have to use an average half way between temperature in the chart below.

(Do Not Set Goose Eggs in Turner)

*Winter operation requires lowering operating temperature to prevent overheating top of eggs. Use these temperature throughout the entire incubation period. Three days before eggs are to hatch, remove the eggs from the turner, lay them on their side on the wire floor, and increase temperature two full degrees above your operating temperature for hatching.

When the turner is removed for hatching, turn adjusting screw one full turn counterclockwise. The motor on turner produces heat and this should correct this situation. Fine adjust after temperature stabilizes.

Caution - About half way through incubation process, you will note an increase in temperature, and you will have to adjust thermostat down nearly one full turn. This is normal and is caused by the embryos forming into chicks and generating heat. Check temperature daily.

Regulate the temperature for desired setting and be sure it holds this temperature for two to three hours before putting eggs in incubator. If using a turner, regulate incubator with the turner in the incubator and plugged into an electrical outlet.

When you put cold eggs in incubator, it can take three hours or more for eggs to warm up and temperature to stabilize at the setting you had before adding the eggs. Also, when you open the incubator, it can take up to two hours for temperature to stabilize.

If chicks hatch out a day early, it indicates temperature was a little too high, so on next setting lower temperature by 0.5 degrees for entire incubation period. If chick hatch a day late, raise temperature 0.5 degrees for entire incubation period.

Select and Grade The Eggs

Eggs must be fresh and fertile. Don't use eggs over 15 days old. Eggs being saved for hatching should be protected from freezing. Discard small or poorly shaped eggs and any with cracked or thin, porous shells. Set only eggs that are clean and of uniform size.

Setting and Turning Eggs

Manual Egg Turning - Place eggs on their side with small end pointed slightly down. Do not overcrowd the eggs.

The eggs should be turned three times a day. Turning the eggs is best done by removing about a dozen from the center and rolling the rest of them toward the center. Place the palms of your hands on the eggs and roll them around until you are sure all have been turned, and then put the eggs taken from the center around the outer edge. Use care in turning eggs to avoid shocks or jars that may rupture the blood vessels of the germ. Do not leave eggs standing on end. Keep them flat, pushing the pointed ends down a little with the hand. With a soft lead pencil, put a small 'X' on one side of egg and 'O' on the other side so you can be sure of turning the eggs.

Automatic Egg Turning - Place turner on bottom of incubator with the motor side to the back of the incubator (rim of bottom with notches is the back). Slide turner as close as possible to the front rim of bottom of incubator. Be sure the turner sits flat on the wire floor.

Use a serrated kitchen knife to cut out the notch in the corner by the motor. This will permit the electric cord from the motor to exit from the incubator.

Run the electric cord through the notch and press to the bottom of the notch.

(Do not set goose eggs in turner)

Note: This Turner runs very slowly--only one revolution in 4 hours.

Moisture

Moisture in an incubator prevents excessive drying out of the natural moisture in the egg. It is impossible to give any set rule for supplying moisture. If the incubator is operated in a damp cellar or in a room with considerable natural moisture, then it may not be necessary to supply artificial moisture. If operating in a dry climate or in dry room, moisture will be needed. The important thing to watch is the air space in the egg. When testing eggs for fertility, note the size of the air space. If the air space is too large, provide moisture.

Moisture in the incubator is controlled by putting water in the small inner trough of the bottom. The small trough by itself will increase the humidity to take care of most climates. If you live in an extremely dry climate you may need moisture in the larger outer trough instead of the small trough. During time of hatching, you need higher humidity that is usually provided from moisture of hatched chicks drying off. Check and fill water trough twice a week.

Important: In the winter time, three days before time to hatch, put water in both troughs of bottom to compensate for extra dryness of air.

Special Notice: Spray duck and goose eggs thoroughly with water twice each week, and spray at least three times a week during the last ten days.

Hatching

Three days before total incubation and hatching time, discontinue turning eggs.

The automatic turner must be removed from the incubator or the eggs must be moved to a separate incubator for hatching. Do not attempt to hatch eggs while the turner is in the incubator, as the slow turning egg racks could crush the chicks.

Lay eggs on wire floor with small end pointed slightly down.

Plastic Vent Plugs

The front vent plug (just below label) is used to regulate humidity and the back vent plug (by electric cord) is used when there is excessive humidity, as follows:

When incubator is over 75 percent of capacity, remove the front vent plug one week before hatch date. The day that chicks start to hatch, remove the back vent plug. If incubator is over 90 percent of capacity and contains large chicks, it may be necessary to prop one side of the incubator top up about 1/8 inch to get chicks dry. Leave side propped up just long enough for most of moisture to clear on windows, but no longer than one hour at a time.

When incubator is from 25 to 75 percent of capacity, remove the front vent plug the day chicks start to hatch.

When there is moisture condensed on the windows, remove front vent plug.

Be sure to replace vent plugs before next setting of eggs.

If vent plug should be lost, close the vent hole with scotch tape.

Chicks may be removed 24 hours after they start to hatch. Extremely wet chicks should be left in incubator to dry.

Plan to remove chicks once a day, as every time incubator is opened, warm moist air escapes. Avoid chilling of wet chicks.

Some chicks may be late in hatching, so you can leave remaining unhatched eggs up to two days longer.

Brooding

When chicks are removed from the incubator they must have a place that is warm and dry. A brooder should have one section that is heated, with a temperature of 95 degrees F (for the first week) and an unheated section for exercise. Food and water should be partially in the heated area. Temperature should be reduced five degrees each week until it is down to 70 degrees F. Some types of chicks need a temperature around 70 degrees F. until they are nearly grown.

Incubator top is not satisfactory as a brooder, as there is not sufficient heat and the chicks may peck it to pieces.

Feed and water chicks at once. Check with your feed dealer for proper feed for type of chicks you have hatched.

Specials Points To Remember

Do not bother the regulator unless it is absolutely necessary. The working of the machine may be affected if the regulator is tampered with excessively.

If the machine does not heat, carefully investigate and see if you have all connections properly made.

Do not overcrowd the eggs.

Keep the eggs clean. Perspiration from the hands or any sort of grease stops up the pores of the shells.

Clean you incubator after each hatch with bleach water. Scrubbing of moisture troughs may cause leaks.

This 1st set of comments are mine.

Price is excellent for what I got. Sells for about $89.00 at Wings N Things shipping included. G&K also has a good deal on them.

It's built to last for years.

Clear top came with it, I didn't pay extra for it.

Sanitation before/after hatch is easy, toss it in the dish washer, or the sink.

I can set tiny to very large size eggs, I don't have to shell out extra cash for optional equipment to set different sizes. Holds 120 quail, 48 chicken, 24 duck/turkey, 16 goose eggs.

Hatched babies can't get burned on heating element cuz it's enclosed

Water well is under wire floor, chicks can't get to it. A Sponge needs to be added to raise huimidity last 3 days.

Comes with a fan. Air is heated and moves by natural convection through the center tower up and over the eggs. No forced blast only when heating element is on or hot and cold spots.

I can turn all the eggs at once manually simply by rotating the drum. Don't have to open the bator so I didn't fork out cash for the optional turner.

Eggs lay on their side in a natural manner, like in the nest.

I have excellent hatch results in this bator with my duck eggs.

What I Don't Like about it:

It's sensative to outside temp and must be in a stable temp area where outside temp doesn't flex up or down to much.

Sometimes eggs land small end slightly up after a turn. If this occurs on the last turn before hatch eggs must be adjusted by hand.

Directions say to leave the turning rack in during hatch cuz removing it affects temp, sometimes babys end up getting stuck between rack and bator floor. Plus it's a trip hazzard for the newly hatched.

Directions say to keep bator at 99.5. I find hatches have a higher hatch rate and are on time at 100*.

NOTE: Before putting this bator together check that the components on the control are positioned correctly. IE: thermister (temp sensor) is standing out, not touching anything. These may get pushed down during packing/shipping. Dust the thermister and other components on the control board, by blowing on them, after every couple of hatches as hatching dander will affect it's performance (causes temp to flex).

The Top Hatch I have is new, and though I have examined it I have not run it. I did set it up and watched it turn; a big motor in a box under the supports, fan blade on one end and the other worm geared to a turner. From the outside looks just like the old ones. It has a slot in the base now, and a small shaft sticks out for adjusting temp, 1&1/2 degrees per turn. Water ring just like the original. They have also added teflon pads on top the support posts so that the tray slides much easier. Soon as I have more to report I will do so. See the update HERE

Hi there, You were looking for input on the Brower - and on where to purchase - so I'll give you my two-cents worth.

I'm the one that recommended DoubleR. They worked for me from the shipping standpoint. Living in California we sometimes feel isolated from the majority of the poultry and poultry supply houses, and shipping can be a concern. DoubleR offered the Brower TopHatch with auto turner, shipping included, for $120. That's pretty good from Florida to California. So, what do I think of the Brower?

I put three settings through the Tophatch this spring. The first was my own standard, show-quality cochin eggs. Hatch rate was about 65%, which I considered good for my not clipping vents, not using AI, and it being their first breeding season. I did not candle so I can't address fertility. I followed the enclosed manufacturers instructions exactly - filling the water canal, removing the red tabs, disengaging the auto-turner the final three days. I did not add a sponge (didn't know I was supposed to!).

Second hatch was half filled with my cochin eggs, and half filled with Toulouse goose eggs - which I received from Wisconsin (I'm in California). Again I followed the same pattern, except that I submerged the goose eggs in lukewarm water once a day. And again, 65% hatch rate on the cochins. Of the twelve goose eggs, six didn't develop (I'm no pro on fertility and candling though), and three finally hatched.

My third hatch was a problem, and I got no chicks. The temperature seemed to spike at times. And as I was gone for a week, I have no way of knowing how high the temperature got, or how long it stayed there.

Overall, I like the Tophatch, and I like the turner. In that I commute into San Francisco everyday for my job and so am away from my home for a ten-hour period, I needed an incubator and turner I could rely on - and I did. Also, it's a not-unattractive incubator - and it's quiet and sanitary. I'd highly recommend it. Jay

I just had my first batch of eggs hatch using the Top Hatch incubator. I had 23 chicken eggs in the unit and 20 hatched. I do not have the automatic turner. I turned the eggs at least 5 times a day, sometimes 6 or 7. At present I have goose eggs in so I hope to have good results with them too. I'm sure one reason I had a good hatching with the chickens was because the eggs were only a day old. The goose eggs are anywhere from 10 days old to laid that day.

First off, I had little trouble getting the temp adjusted. I let the machine run for a couple of days to get used to setting the temp, and to make sure there weren't any flaws in the fan or thermister since it was a new machine. I noticed the temp went up in the morning, but I figured out it was because the sunlight was shining in on it from my french doors. I made sure the shade was down before I went to bed so the temp wouldn't rise. Also, when I put the eggs in the unit, the temp rose within hours. I waited several hours for the eggs to completely warm, then I adjusted the temp back down. I also replaced the bulb that came with the machine, with a new GE bulb. After that I no longer had unstable temps.

I found that turning the eggs manually wasn't any trouble. I had both small and very large chicken eggs in so I did have to take the lid off to adjust the eggs after nearly every turn. It didn't take long so the temp fell only a few degrees but quickly went back to normal.

When I candled the eggs, I figured out that holding the egg in the across position helped to see inside better. I had trouble seeing much when I held the egg with the round end pointing up. I was hatching many dark brown eggs so that too cut down on the viewing. The room must be rather dark in order to get a good look at the developing peeps.

I did stop turning the last 3 days and I added a damp sponge inside the machine. I also lowered the temp.

After all the chicks had hatched, clean up was fast and easy. I rinsed out the lid, rack, mesh, and drum. Then I placed them in the dishwasher and added some bleach along with the Cascade. I took the hair dryer and blew out the dander from the fan/thermister. I also cleaned the base to be on the safe side.

All and all I must say that I'm happy with the Top Hatch. It's made to last a very long time. There's nothing flimsy made about it.

I have a Top Hatch and Litte Giant. I haven't used my Top Hatch very much, but I have used the Little Giant several times.

I have started using the Little Giant just for hatching, and using a Brower Top Hatch for the initial incubation period. This saves having to open it for fairly long periods to turn the eggs, which really plays havoc with the humidity and temperature.

I don't feel it is worth the cost to buy an automatic turner for the little giant, as they cost about as much as the original incubator itself. My advice would be to purchase a better incubator, like the Top Hatch, which costs less.

Here's what I think of the Top Hatch. It has forced air, a built-in candler, and an automatic turner can be had for less than $30. For the Little Giant, you have to purchase the incubator itself (around $40), the turner (around $40) and the fan (around $25), and it still doesn't work that well. This is my limited experience with the Top Hatch incubator.

From the time I got it and plugged it in, it ran at exactly 99.5 degrees, set from the factory. It never wavers, unless it's been opened for several minutes to candle or adjust something. Even then, it comes back up to temperature very quickly. I am impressed with that feature.

The humidity is a little more difficult, but not bad. It's kind of hard to see how full the water well is and it's hard to fill, because a lot of the water seems to splash out when you're trying to fill it down the side. It does hold the humidity pretty well for me, and I fill it about every 2 days. I bought a hygrometer to test it, and it stayed at around 66% humidty with the water wells full. So I would probably add a sponge during the hatch, but that's about it.

The automatic turner is probably not really needed, since it's so easy to turn them by hand, without opening it. You just rotate the drum. The turner moves the eggs into strange positions sometimes, and it's difficult to tell if it's really doing the job. It moves in minute increments, from what I can tell. I also have had problems with the rack tipping up a bit on one side, so it rides over the tops of the eggs a bit and gets stuck. I have to check it periodically to make sure this doesn't happen. For $29.99, I probably wouldn't buy a turner again.

I also understand you can just put it into your dishwasher to clean, which is a huge improvement over trying to clean a styrofoam incubator. Also don't have to worry about germs hiding in the pores like styrofoam.

All in all, I like this incubator so far. I haven't run a complete hatch of eggs through it, as I've been moving them into the Little Giant at hatch time, so I can keep the turner going for the next batch of eggs. I would recommend this incubator as a much better table top incubator.

Brower Top Hatch Incubator Reviews

I have the Brower Tophatch 110. I really like it, except for a couple of things -

I just completed my very first hatch with a hatch rate of 13 chicks to 19 eggs.... What's that? About 65%? Not too great. But, it was my first hatch, and I sure learned a lot.

I love the see-thru top.

I do not like the fact that when the chicks hatch, they trip over the pie-shaped dividers in the incubator. One of the chicks had its head stuck under the rack too... had to rescue him.

Another thing, I had trouble stabilizing the temperature. I have no idea why. Incubator was initially set up in pantry - no draft, no sunlight, etc., can't figure out what happened, but one day it suddenly spiked in temperature. All I can figure is that perhaps there was a power surge.

The Brower also allows for handturning of the eggs, which is great, and they recommend turning at least 5 times a day. However, upon reading some books, after the hatch, I see where it is suggested that the eggs be turned hourly! I was amazed. I'm going to purchase the auto turner this time. For an additional $28.00 I figure it can't hurt.

Just started using the turner. It turns eggs 6 1/2 times each 24 hours.

My ADDITIONAL Comments

I wrote the above when the unit I had was new, and I was still impressed (grin). I am no longer impressed, and as a matter of fact, am ready to throw the dang things in the garbage. Yes, that was 'things' plural, because I was so excited at first with the results of the first one I bought, I decided to buy a second with the autoturner. So I have two of them. Both of them suck as far as I'm concerned (sorry about the language) but right now, I'm sitting here with only 7 babies out of 23 eggs set. Not a very good hatch rate -- and the reason is that both of my Browers quit on me. One has a fan that sticks continually, even tho I have cleaned and wd 40'd it. It quit on me the day before they were due to pip -- I got up in the morning, the incubator was not heating, and the temp in the bator was down to 84. I felt the eggs, most of them were cold. I had the other Brower going with some duck eggs in it (8 to be exact), so I transferred all the cold eggs into the other Brower). The temp in that Brower would not stay constant. It was fluctuating anywhere from 3-4 degrees from the 99.5 where I wanted it. In other words, it would go up to 103 and then back down to 95, then up, then down, then up... well, you get the picture. Two Sunday's ago, hubby and I went to a neighboring farm, and purchased 6 guineas. The folks there told me about this lady whose husband had recently passed away, and she was selling off all his bird stuff, including a GQF 1202, and all she wanted was $150.00. Then this past Sunday, we rode out there to visit this lady with our new found friends, and I purchased the incubator. I got it home, oooohed and aaaawed over it. It has the auto turner, the auto humidifier, two temp controls (a back up heat system), 3 egg racks, and a hatching tray on the bottm that has a covered wire top to it. I'm ecstatic over it!!

Fortunately, I had just started the GQF this past Thursday, to test it out, and had saved 6 more duck eggs, and a 7 Ameraucana eggs to run my test. Well, when my second Brower quit, I put ALL eggs into the GQF. The temp in my GQF has not varied even .25 of a degree either way. It is as steady as a rock. It does not have the see-through door, but that doesn't seem to bother me at this point in time.

Those eggs that were supposed to pip and hatch that were in the first Brower are now in the hatching tray of the GQF. Unfortunately, only 8 of them have hatched. 2 pipped, but never made it. I blame the Brower for ANOTHER lousey hatch. I'm getting ready to sell them real cheap, but not before I write to the company, and get the replacement parts. I look at it as a waste of a couple hundred bucks.

Brower Top Hatch

a. Still in the middle of the first group of eggs for incubation. This is my first try with it.

b. Problem: temperature varies a lot.

c. Egg turner works great, not very noticeable, but some eggs do tend to get turned in weird directions so I have to readjust them.

Browser Top Hatch Incubator Manual Instructions

d. 'Automatic candler' isn't much. I still use the hand-held candler

e. I like its size. It is easily sitting on my sewing machine cabinet.

Browser Top Hatch Incubator Manual Transmission

f. I like that the temperature control is concealed and difficult to accidently (if at all) change.

Brower Top Hatch Incubator For Sale

g. I like the clear top.